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Welcome 2 France Newsletter June 2009
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JUNE NEWSLETTER HIGHLIGHTS

* Paris PAstRIeS
* Garcons de Cafe Race
* Calendar of Events - June, 2009
* July, 2009, Paris Events - A Look Ahead



THIS MONTH'S FEATURED APARTMENTS:

Many new apartments available this month that we are proud to present among our growing list of luxury homes away from home. No less than seven waiting for your visit with us, and that we hope you will enjoy having a peek at meanwhile:

Champs Elysees - du Roule II

Marais - Vielle du Temple Mansion

Montparnasse - Atelier Loft

Saint Germain des Pres - Bon Marche

Marais - Saint Paul II

Marais - Quincampoix

Saint Germain des Pres - Grenelle III




PARIS PAstRIeS

Paris has long been known as a city full of an inexhaustible supply of eateries. Patisseries caught our main attention in the months of February and March, 2009, during our most recent stay in this wondrous place. Each little pastry shop was a tiny jewel box of shining, colorful goodies - all handmade and each one a perfect work of art.

Where to start? At first, we went through the phone book to find many listings. In fact, far too many to visit even with two full months in Paris. But, undaunted, with a list of shops culled from various travel books, websites, personal recommendations, and other research, off we went each day in search of a new sugary experience.

I can easily say, from our goody-hunting, that we were never disappointed because all the pastries were fabulous, although some really did stand out.



I'll start with the oldest pastry shop in all of Paris ...


STOHRERS - 51, rue Montorgueil in the 2nd Arrondissement. Metro: Etienne Marcel or Sentier.

They are famous for their Seven-Fruit Tart (raspberries, strawberries, tangerines, peaches, kiwis, rose figs and white peaches all set in almond paste with a sable crust). You will hate biting into the beauty of it.

We bought the Puits d'Amour - "wells of love" which are individual flaky puff pastries filled with cream and caramelized with a hot iron for extra crunch. Love is right.

Stohrers was opened in 1730 by one of Louis XV's pastry chefs. The name Stohrer comes from Marie Antoinette's favorite private patissier. The shop is now classified as a National Historical Monument. The same artist who painted much of the Opera Garnier's interior, Paul Baudry, also painted the little angelic creatures on the walls and ceiling of Stohrers.

From their lovely chandelier to the mirrored paintings, this is the pastry shop in Paris to visit if you can only see one. After all, Queen Elizabeth shops here.

FLORENCE FINKELSZTAJN - 24, rue des Ecouffes in the 4th Arrondissement. Metro: St-Paul.

Known as the Blue Bakery for its brightly painted exterior, it is on the corner of rue des Rosiers, the rue that runs through the heart of the Marais' Jewish district. Expect to see lots of falafels in the hands of hungry folks strolling in this area. This shop has been here over 50 years. You can grab one of the very few (3-4) stools and enjoy your treat at the counter inside or eat it as most people do while walking. We chose the almond flavored 'babkas' because they simply looked too good to pass up and they were!

Around the corner we also found:

SACHA FINKELSZTAJN - 27, rue des Rosiers in the 4th Arrondissement. Metro: Saint-Paul.

This is the 'yellow' storefront you cannot miss for the long line of people waiting to sample their traditional Russian cheesecake. Dense and delicious and well worth the wait in line.

DALLOYAU - 2, place Edmond Rostand in the 6th Arrondissement. Metro: St-Michel.

With several locations all over Paris you can't skip trying this lovely pastry shop. We went for their "Marron au Cassis", a sponge cake covered with a layer of cream cheese flavored with black currant and glazed with a chestnut caramelization that tasted very butterscotchy. Thank goodness for all the walking we did while in Paris - or the calories would have really snuck up on us!



JEAN MILLET - 103, rue Saint-Dominique in the 7th Arrondissement. Metro: La-Tour-Maubourg.

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, sits this little, unassuming gem of a shop. Very friendly ladies helped us choose the "Meringue Chocolat-Chantilly". It was absolutely huge so we had to share it. They gave us an extra plate and fork, without our having to ask for it. For only €4,00 we had a sublime moment. The chocolate meringue shell was filled with chantilly cream and sprinkled with cocoa dust and chocolate shavings on top. Bright green chopped pistachios capped its excellence.

I learned that 'meringue' was named for the Swiss village, Mehringen, where the pastry chef, Gasparini, was born. Gasparini was head pastry chef for the former king of Poland, Stanislaus Leszczynski. During the king's exile in 1720 he had Gasparini brought over from Switzerland to create the meringue cake.

Meanwhile, 'chantilly cream', was created in 1714 by Chef Vatel, who was head pastry chef out at the Chantilly Chateau. This beautiful pastry shop put the two together and made sweet heaven.

On the wall of Jean Millet was a small plaque announcing that it was a member of the International Association of Master Pastry Chefs. There are only 80 of them in the world, five once resided in Paris. While the association no longer exists, that doesn't mean that the honor doesn't. Many of the shops originally owned by the Masters have been sold to other pastry chefs, but only to those who could, and would, uphold the high standards.

Those standards include creativity of their master recipes, using only the finest of ingredients, and the ability to marry refined flavors, textures, and harmonious colors. No detail is overlooked.

Another Master shop is:

LE TRIOMPHE - 23, boulevard du Rendez-Vous in the 12th Arrondissement. Metro: Nation.

Our first trip way out to this little place ended in futility as we arrived during the afternoon closure. But, peeking through the window that afternoon, we knew we'd be back first thing the next morning. Their hours are Monday through Friday: 8-2 and 4-7:30; Saturday: 8-7:30 and Sunday: 8-2.
Take note!

Peter had a "Pain au Raisins" which is no ordinary cinnamon/brown sugar Raisin Bun, let me tell you. This shop makes them with brioche dough using extra butter. They fill the bread part with a pastry custard cream that'll make you cry it is so good, and add rum-soaked raisins.

I had an assortment of several "Mini-Macaroons". Le Triomphe doesn't use any artificial food colorings so I would love to know how they achieved the deep, gorgeous colors of the pistachio, blueberry, coffee, raspberry, and vanilla yummies that I enjoyed while sitting on a park bench around the corner at Square Corteline. These little delacacies were as deeply flavored as they were tinted. The vanilla, of all things, just burst onto my tastebuds.

VAUDRON - 4, rue de la Jonquiere in the 17th Arrondissement. Metro: Guy Moquet.

This was quite a find. Actually, I asked a lady in a boulangerie where a good pastry shop in the neighborhood might be found. She spoke English, being a Canadian who has lived in Paris for the last 28 years. She led us to Vaudron and we were greatly appreciative.

We were in a cake-eating mood, so we opted for two..the Richelieu and the Valencia. While having two was a bit much, we managed. It took us all day to finish them, but what a treat!

The Richelieu has a vanilla-laced chocolate sponge cake base, then a layer of milk chocolate mousse covered with a thin layer of chocolate sponge cake. Next came a layer of dark chocolate mousse. The whole decadence was glazed with bitter chocolate. Espressos were wonderful with this.

The Valencia Cake, as the name indicates, was basically an orange affair. The bottom layer was chocolate-almond sponge cake soaked in a syrup made of orange juice, simple syrup and vodka (yep, vodka!). It is built in a flan ring. The next layer is a light custard cream flavored with orange juice & butter (what else?). Last layer was an orange-soaked chocolate-almond sponge cake. The top was artfully decorated with candied orange peel and shards of shaved chocolate.

See why it took us all day to eat them? They were tiny but deadly!

In just about all the patisseries, one finds the Macaroons, Canneles, Divorcees, among many other wonderful offerings. We worked our way across Paris from patisserie to patisserie and never got tired of trying all the goodies we could manage. I came home with a suitcase full of Cannele molds, pastry tips and Madeliene pans.

It is rare to find a patisserie with seating inside, or out. A few will have a tiny seating area and those usually will also serve coffee. Americans are used to having pastry with coffee, but to the French that just isn't done. They enjoy them separately.

So, while in Paris do try the local patisseries when you need a museum or monument break. You will not be disappointed...except, perhaps, on the scales after the trip!


Jean E. Arnevick, Olympia, Washington, U.S.A.



GARCONS DE CAFE RACE

Every June waiters and waitresses queue up in front of Paris' City Hall, the Hotel-de-Ville, in traditional French wait-persons' attire to race 8km through the streets of Paris while carrying the heavy trays, full water carafes, and glasses that one sees in all Parisian eateries. To win they must cross the finish line without dropping their burden. It is fun to watch and free to do so. This year the race will be held on June 20th. A proud tradition in Paris.

And, PS, never call a wait-person, "Garcon", and never snap your fingers at them for attention. It has been our experience that they are very aware of your needs beforehand and most polite if treated politely. We say, "Monsieur, s'il vous plait".



FAREWELL NOTE

I am sad to announce that this issue of the Welcome2france Newsletter is my last one to write for you. I am leaving to explore other places. I have greatly enjoyed sharing our Parisian experiences with you and hope that my writings have helped you explore Paris and understand how easy and wonderful a place it is to visit and to temporarily 'live' in when renting your own apartment. Au revoir.
And, don't worry a new writer will take over so your next edition will be right on time next month.


Jean E. Arnevick, Olympia, Washington, U.S.A.




CALENDAR OF EVENTS - June, 2009


ART

June 3 - September 7
Philippe Parreno - "Zidane: A 21st Century Portrait"
Place Georges Pompidou - Galerie Sud
Rue Saint-Martin - 4th Arrondissement
€9,00 - 12,00
centrepompidou.fr

Until June 21
De Sienne a Florence - Italian pre-Renaissance art
Musee Jacquemart-Andre
158, bd Haussmann - 8th Arrondissement
€7,50 -10,00; Under 7: Free
musee-jacquemart-andre.com

Until June 28
William Blake - 130 canvasses by the Romantic visionary
Musee des Beaux-Arts in Musee des Beaux-Arts
Avenue Winston Churchill - 8th Arrondissement
Free
paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6228

All of June - July 12
Zadkine on Paper - 50 of his preparatory drawings
Musee Zadkine
100 bis, rue d'Assas - 6th Arrondissement
€3,00 - 4,00
paris.fr/portail/Culture/Portal.lut?page_id=6471

All of June - July 13
Le Grand Monde d'Andy Warhol - Pop artist
Grand Palais
Avenue Winston Churchill - 8th Arrondissement
€8,00 - 11,00
grandpalais.fr

All of June - July 19
See Italy and Die - Photography & painting in 19th century Italy
Musee d'Orsay
2, rue Bellechasse - 7th Arrondissement
€5,50 - 8,00
musee-orsay.fr

All of June - August 10
Kandinsky - 20th century abstract artist
Pompidou Centre
Rue Saint-Martin, Place Georges Pompidou - 4th Arrondissement
€9,00 - 12,00
centrepompidou.fr

All of June - September 15
Suzanne Valadon et Maurice Utrillo - Mother and son's art
La Pinacotheque
28, place de la Madeleine - 8th Arrondissement
€7,00 - 9,00
pinacotheque.com



EXHIBITIONS



Until June 29
Jazz Century - 1000 objects relating to Jazz
Musee du Quai Branly
37, quai Branly - 7th Arrondissement
€6,00 - 8,50
musee-jacquemart-andre.com

Until June 29
Les Portes du Ciel - Gates of Heaven
Musee du Louvre
99, rue de Rivoli - 1st Arrondissement
€11,00
louvre.fr

All of June- August 16
Epidemik - History of epidemics
Cite des Sciences
30, avenue Corentin-Celtou - 19th Arrondissement
€6,00 - 8,00
cite-sciences.fr



MUSIC, THEATER and FILM



June 6 - July 26
Paris Jazz Festival - Saturdays and Sundays
Parc Floral de Paris - Route de la Pyramide
Bois de Vincennes - 12th Arrondissement
€2,50 - 5,00; Under 7: Free
parisjazzfestival2008.com

June 7 - July 7
Saint-Denis Festival - Music
16, rue de la Legion d'Honneur
Saint Denis, france
For prices, please see website
festival-saint-denis.com

June 10 - 13
Rigoletto - Open air opera
Jardins du Luxembourg
6th Arrondissement
€39,00 - 89,00
akouna.com/operaenpleinair

June 11 - 14
Pocket Film Festival - Movies on mobile phones
Pompidou Centre
Rue St-Martin, Place Georges Pompidou - 4th Arrondissement
€8,00 - 10,00; Under 18: Free
festivalpocketfilms.fr

June 12
AC/DC - Black Ice World Tour
Stade de France - Zac du Cornillon Nord
St.Denis, France
Sold out
acdc.com

June 16 - July 15
Paris Chopin Festival - "Chopin recoit Szymanowski"
Orangerie de Bagatelle
Parc de Bagatelle in Bois de Boulogne - 16th Arrondissement
Various prices, see website
frederic-chopin.com/f_b1a.htm

June 19 - 28
New Soloists Festival - See the stars of tomorrow
Serres d'Auteuil (Auteuil Greenhouse)
3, avenue de la Porte d'Auteuil - 16th Arrondissement
€10,00 - 15,00
ars-mobilis.com

June 20 - August 10
100 Dessuss Dessous Festival - Performing Arts
Parc de la Villette
211, avenue Jean Jaures - 19th Arrondissement
€12,00 - 15,00
100dd.fr

June 21
Fete de la Musique - Opera to Jazz
Various venues
All over Paris
Free
fetedelamusique.culture.fr

June 27
Depeche Mode - Concert
Stade de France - Zac du Cornillon Nord
St.Denis, France
€51,70 - 95.70
depechemode.com

Until June 29
"Jazz Century" - 1000 collectible objects on display
Musee du Quai Branly
37, quai Branly - 7th Arrondissement
6,00 - 8,50 Euros
quaibranly.fr

All of June - October 5
Le Jardin Shakespeare's Open-Air Theatre
Bois de Boulogne - Chapiteau Alexis Gruss
Allee de la Reine Marguerite - 16th Arrondissement
Prices vary by event
info@paris-touristoffice.com



OTHER



Until June 7
French Open
Stade Roland Garros
Bois de Boulogne - 16th Arrondissement
€12,50 - 67,50
fft.fr/rolandgarros

Until June 7, 2010
Darwin Year: La Ruee Vers l'Homme - Celebrating Darwin's bicentennial year
Cite des Sciences
30, avenue Corentin Celtou - 19th Arrondissement
€6,00 - 8,00
cite-sciences.fr

Until June 30
Chroniques Parisiennes Photo Exhibition - 70 photos of Parisian Life
Eiffel Tower
Champs-de-Mars - 7th Arrondissement
Free with entry ticket to Tower
tour-eiffel.fr

June 4 -7
Le Carre Rive Gauche - Antique Fair
Rues de Bac, de Lille, des Sts-Peres, de l'Universite & Quai Voltaire
7th Arrondissement
Free
carrerivegauche.com

June 5
Eden Park Beach Rugby
Palais Omnisports de Paris Bercy
8, boulevard de Bercy - 12th Arrondissement
€5,00 - 22,00
bercy.fr

June 7
National Quigong Day - Martial Arts
Various venues in Paris
federationqigong.com

June 7
Conference Publique de sa Saintete le Dalai Lama
Palais Omnisports de Paris Bercy
8, boulevard de Bercy - 12th Arrondissement
€15,00 - 20,00
bercy.fr

June 12 - 14
Bougez - Salon des Sports et Loisirs - Sports/Leisure Expo
Porte de Versailles
15th Arrondissement
€7,00 - 23,00; Under 10: Free
salon-bouqez.com

June 19 - 21
Paris Air Show - The Farnborough Airshow
Bourget Airport
Le Bourget, France
See website for prices
paris-air-show.com

June 20
Finales des Championnats de France de Basket - BB finals
8, boulevard de Bercy - 12th Arrondissement
€12,00 - 65,00
bercy.fr

June 24
Midsummer Fireworks - Celebrates the shortest night of the year
Fired from the upstream tip of the Ile St-Louis
Watch from Quai St-Bernard
Free
no website

June 24 - January 31, 2010
Madeleine Vionnet - French fashion designer of the interwar years
Musee des Arts Decoratifs
107 -111, rue de Rivoli - 1st Arrondissement
€6,50 - 8,00
lesartsdecoratifs.fr

June 27 - 29
Mode et Mariage - Paris Bridal Fair
Porte de Versailles Expo
15th Arrondissement
Free
parisbridalfair.com

June - August
Summer Sales - Major department stores' semi-annual mark-downs

All of June - July 5
Foire Saint-Germain - Street fair since Medieval times
Place Saint-Sulpice
6th Arrondissement
Free
foiresaintgermain.org

All of June - September 20
Barbie - Exhibition of her first 50 years
Musee de la Poupee
Impasse Berthaud, near 22, rue Beaubourg - 3rd Arrondissement
€5,00 - 7,00
museedelapoupeeparis

All of June - October 12
Jardin des Papillons - Butterfly Garden
Bois de Vincennes -Parc Floral
Route de la Pyramide - 12th Arrondissement
Free
parcfloraldeparis.com

All of June - December 29
Grande Ecurie - Grand Stables of Versailles
Chateau de Versailles
Avenue Rockfeller - Versailles, France
€6,00
acadequestre.fr

All of June - January 3, 2010
Crimexpo - Interactive display of crime scene investigation
Cite des Sciences
30, avenue Corentin Celtou - 19th Arrondissement
€7,00 - 10,00; Under 7: Free
cite-sciences.fr



A LOOK AHEAD - JULY, 2009

July 5 - 6 Britney Spears in concert (bercy.fr)

July 7 Leonard Cohen in concert (bercy.fr)

July 8 Seal in concert (bercy.fr)

July 9 Madonna in concert (bercy.fr)

July 8 Kultima Festival of the Imagination (kultima.com)

July 3- 14 Paris Cinema Festival (pariscinema.org)

July 6 - 25 Paris Dance Festival (lesetesdeladanse.com)

July - August Centre National des Arts du Cirque (villette.com/fr)

July 15 - August 16 Open-Air Cinema at La Villette (villette.com/fr)

July - August Paris Quartier d'Ete (quartierdete.com)

July - September Festival Musique en l'Ille (latoisondart.com)

July 2 - 5 Japan Expo (japan-expo.com)

July 13 - 14 Bastille Day (no website)

July 26 Tour de France: Final Stage (letour.fr)

July - August Beach at Stade de France (stadefrance.com)

July 6 - 9 Paris Haute Couture (modeaparis.com)

July - August Paris Plage (no website)

July 11 U2 Concert (u2.com)

July 18 - 19 Summer on the Stage at Villette (villette.com/fr)

July Les Arenes du Jazz (infoconcert.com/festival/les-arenes-du-jazz)

July 2 - 5 Open de France ALSTOM (europeantour.com)

July Golden League Athletics (iaaf.org/GLE08/index.html)



Jean E. Arnevick, Olympia, Washington, U.S.A.




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Thank you for your interest and best regards,

The Welcome 2 France team

www.welcome2france.com
Tel. 1 (650) 267-4328
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